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Norway

Norway flag

When I think of Norway, I think about the spectacular fjords along those amazing coastlines, the fresh seafood from all those waters, the amazing hikes in summer and the range of activities in winter. And of course the best of all, Norway is also one of the few countries in the world that offer great vantage points for viewing the northern lights (aurora borealis) in winter, and the midnight sun in summer. In particular, witnessing the northern lights has to be one of the biggest highlights of a lifetime!

On the other hand, Norway is the most expensive country I have ever visited. Although, the Norwegian Kroner has depreciated quite significantly since I last visited the country.

Overview of Norway

Norway is the westernmost country of Scandinavia, bordered by the Norwegian Sea on the west as well as Sweden and Finland on the East. The country is most famous for its stunningly beautiful fjords, which are large water bodies surrounded by steep cliffs formed by glacier activities.

As can be seen on the map of Norway, the country boasts long stretches of coastlines. In fact, it has the second longest coastline in the world after Canada, at 100,915km! And so, it is not surprising that Norway is also the world’s second largest exporter of seafood, mainly the Norwegian salmon and cod. And to add to that, the best fish soups I have had are all in Norway!

Key facts

  • Language: Norwegian, English
  • Currency: Norwegian Kroner (NOK) – 1,000 NOK approx. £72/€85/US$95
  • Timezone: GMT+1 (Winter), GMT+2 (Summer)
  • Capital: Oslo
  • Official carriers: Norwegian Air and Scandinavian Air (SAS – flag carrier of Denmark, Norway and Sweden)
  • Driving: Right side of road
  • Power outlet: Type C/F/J, 230V, 50Hz
Type C or E power outlet

Costs and budget

  • Undoubtedly, the most expensive country I have ever visited, notably with food, transport, attractions and accommodations.
  • However, Norwegian Kroner exchange rates have been more favourable in recent couple of years than before.
  • Avoid the high peak season of July-August
  • Refer to ‘Costs’ section, particularly relating to the highly popular ‘Norway in a Nutshell’
  • Be prepared to spend a lot especially if you are going for the northern lights and winter activities!

Top 10 highlights

The selection below reflects my opinion based on places I have visited, namely the capital Oslo, Bergen, Stavanger and Tromsø. There are of course, many other areas that probably are as good or even better (like Ålesund, Geiranger or Lofoten) that I hope to visit one day and be able to add to and update the list.

1
Northern Light tours in Tromsø
2
Hike to Kjeragbolten
3
Tromsø winter activities
4
Norway in a Nutshell
5
Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen)
6
Mount Fløyen and Fløibanen funicular
7
Bergen, Harbour and Fish market
8
Norwegian fish soup
9
Oslo Sentrum (city centre)
10
Oslo Bygdøy Peninsula
Norway overview of cities and sights
Click on map to view in detail

Norway is generally divided into 5 main regions, the Eastern, Western, Southern, Northern Norway and Trondelag (sometimes also referred to as Central Norway).

Eastern Norway

To start with, this is where the capital city of Oslo is located. This is also your most likely entry point into Norway because of Oslo’s wider range of connections by international flights, ferries, trains and buses.

Within the capital, you will find a number of attractions catering to varying interests, such as

  1. museums, including the Viking Museum, the Norsk Folkemuseum and the Norwegian Maritime Museum on the Bygdøy Peninsula (do note that the Viking Museum is closed for renovations until 2027)
Entrance to the Viking Museum, featuring a wide range of items from the Viking Age
Entrance to the Viking Museum, featuring a wide range of items from the Viking Age
Norsk Folkemuseum, an outdoor museum of Norwegian history and medieval buildings
Norsk Folkemuseum, an outdoor museum of Norwegian history and medieval buildings
  1. open spaces, including Frogner Park (which also includes the Vigeland Sculpture Park) and the harbour
Frogner Park
Frogner Park, featuring 200 sculptures on the aspects of human life
Oslo Harbour
Oslo Harbour
  1. cultural places, including the Oslo Opera House and the National Theatre
  2. historical places, including the Oslo Cathedral and Akershus Fortress
  3. the Nobel Peace Centre, and
  4. the Royal Palace 

Oslo is also the starting or ending point of the most famous Norway in a Nutshell trip, taking you through the beautiful fjords of the country.

City hall of Oslo
City hall of Oslo
Nobel Peace Centre Oslo
Nobel Peace Centre Oslo

Western Norway

This is in my opinion where the gems of Norway lie. And if you are taking the Norway in a Nutshell trip, the key highlights are all located within Western Norway. The trip takes you through lovely fjords and landscapes through a series of train, bus and boat rides. It ultimately brings you to Bergen, which is the main city of this area.

Bergen

Bergen itself is an amazing town, featuring Bryggen, a picturesque harbour area with colourful wooden houses and a fresh fish market. The town is surrounded by mountains and fjords, including Mount Fløyen which you can reach by the Fløibanen funicular. Up at Mount Fløyen, you get an impressive panoramic view of the town and there are hiking trails as well if you are there in summer.

The town of Bergen is the second largest of Norway
The town of Bergen is the second largest of Norway
Visit the Bergen Fish Market for some fresh seafood
Visit the Bergen Fish Market for some fresh seafood
Stavanger

Stavanger is the energy capital of Norway, with the oil industry being its main production. While it is an important business area for Norway, it is also in close proximity to many famous hikes of Norway. Hence for this reason, Stavanger is also a hub for hikers who wish to take on the Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) and Kjeragbolten, the boulder wedged between two cliffs.

PS: Pardon the terrible photos as I was very unlucky with the weather despite doing the hike in August. 

Walk onto Kjeragbolten with a 5-6 hour hike
Walk onto Kjeragbolten with a 5-6 hour hike
Hike up to Preikestolen, one of the most famous views of Norway
Hike up to Preikestolen, one of the most famous views of Norway
Ålesund and Geiranger

Ålesund is frequently marketed as the place where the mountains and fjords meet the ocean. And specifically, this is where the Geirangerfjord starts. The town is also known for its art nouveau architectural style inspired by the natural world, characterised by floral and animal motifs, when it was rebuilt following a large fire in 1904.

I personally have not been to this part of Norway yet but have, without doubt, heard lots of good things. It is surely in my future plans.

Southern Norway

This area is also known as the ‘Norwegian Riviera’ and is popular among Norwegians, particularly the Skagerrak Coast. This article gives a pretty good overview of the the towns in this area: An introduction to the most popular towns of Southern Norway.

Trondelag (Central Norway)

As the name suggests, this is very much the middle of Norway. And like the rest of Norway, with no less impressive views of mountains, fjords and islands. Additionally, this area is known for its culinary experiences. Particularly, foodies may be interested in the Golden Route with numerous world-class restaurants. For more information about this area, refer to the Explore Trondelag website.

Northern Norway

The first thing that comes to mind when it comes to Northern Norway, is the possibility of viewing the impressive northern lights (aurora borealis) during the off-summer months, and the midnight sun during a few weeks in summer.

Multi-colours of the northern lights around Tromsø
Multi-colours of the northern lights around Tromsø
Impressive northern lights with amazing landscapes
Impressive northern lights with amazing landscapes

Particularly, Tromsø is a popular town where visitors use as a base for chasing the northern lights and embarking on winter activities such as snowmobiling and reindeer-sledding. With Tromsø located right within the Arctic Circle, it is without doubt one of the best places in the world to view this mesmerising phenomenon. Even better than Iceland in my opinion.

Dog sledding in Norway
Dog sledding in Norway
Snowmobiling while in Tromsø
Snowmobiling while in Tromsø

Kirkenes is a town in the far north and is usually the turning or ending point of the northern light cruises that depart from Bergen. These cruises typically take about 2 weeks both ways, hugging the coastlines of Norway and dropping off for some day tours of the towns along the way.

The yellow and green of a strong northern light showing
The yellow and green of a strong northern light showing

Getting to Norway

As I have noted above, you will most likely be entering Norway via Oslo, the capital city if travelling from outside of Europe. You have a few more different options if travelling from Europe, and more so from other parts of Scandinavia, Denmark, Sweden or Finland in particular.

By air

Norwegian Air and Scandinavian Air (SAS) are the two main carriers serving Norway, both regionally and internationally, all-year round. Many different airlines all around the world also fly directly into Oslo, the capital city.

Direct flights into Bergen and Stavanger mostly arrive only from within Europe though. For most of the other cities in Norway, it is likely that you will need connecting flights from one of the above three cities. For example, if flying to Tromsø, you probably need a transit at Oslo or Bergen.

By rail

As can be seen in the overview map above, Norway shares borders with Sweden and Finland. However, the northern areas of Norway are not as well connected by rail as the south.

Even then, land is so vast in Scandinavia that train journeys do take a long time. To illustrate, a train from Stockholm in Sweden to Oslo takes more than 5 hours. On the other hand, a flight takes only an hour. The journey from Gothenburg (the west side of Sweden) to Oslo takes slightly shorter at about 3.5 hours. For more information on trains from Sweden to Norway, you can refer to SJ. Due to the long travelling time, I would generally only consider this option if travelling from Western side of Sweden into Oslo.

By road

As I have noted above, there is so much land in Scandinavia that I don’t really recommend taking the bus from Sweden unless you are close to the border to Norway. However, if you still prefer, you can plan your journey with Flixbus.

To illustrate, driving from Stockholm to Oslo takes at least 6 hours, and driving from Gothenburg to Oslo at least 3.5 hours. Similar to my opinion on travelling by rail, I would only consider this if travelling from the western side of Sweden into Oslo.

By sea

This was actually how I arrived at Oslo, via a 19-hour ferry from Copenhagen. This is normally an overnight cruise beginning from mid-afternoon in Copenhagen and arriving mid-morning at Oslo. This is also a car-ferry, so if you have a vehicle, you are allowed to drive it on board. Despite the long journey, almost half the time was spent on sleeping and eating, and you can spend the rest of the time enjoying some entertainment on board. For more information on the cruise, you may check the cruise provider’s website DFDS.

The cruise from Flam to Gudvangen
The cruise from Flam to Gudvangen on Norway in a Nutshell

Getting around Norway

Between cities

Land is so vast in Norway that it makes more sense travelling inter-city by flights rather than driving or public transport. To illustrate, it takes 22 hours to drive from Oslo to Tromsø but only less than 2 hours by flight. And it takes 7 hours to drive from Oslo to Bergen but only 50 minutes on flight.

Despite me saying that, I still suggest the Norway in a Nutshell trip to travel between Oslo and Bergen as it brings you to some of the most beautiful fjords of Norway while travelling between the cities. The Norway in a Nutshell trip is a combination of 5 public transport legs via trains, ferry and bus, taking you 11 hours through Norway’s scenic landscapes.

Regionally

Most of Norway’s key cities are rather small and compact, which make them walkable. Otherwise, in larger cities like Oslo, they also have a good bus network to bring you around. However, if you are intending to visit the amazing landscapes outside the cities (and you should!), I’d recommend to either drive or book yourself on tours.

To point out, if you purchase bus tickets in Oslo on board, you will have to pay a surcharge of 20 NOK. This is in addition to the 42 NOK bus fare. Hence, do buy your bus tickets in advance at convenience kiosks or service points, or obtain a 24-hour pass for 127 NOK. Refer to the ticketing information for Oslo public transport.

Summary

Hence to summarise, take the Norway in a Nutshell between Oslo and Bergen, fly between distant cities, drive or take tours to view the landscapes, and walk or take the bus within cities. You can view and book trains, boats and buses through Vy. More on Vy under ‘Costs’.

Flåmsbana, the train from Myrdal to Flåm on Norway in a Nutshell
Flåmsbana, the train from Myrdal to Flåm on Norway in a Nutshell
Fløibanen funicular to Mount Fløyen in Bergen
Fløibanen funicular to Mount Fløyen in Bergen

How can I manage costs?

Norway is the most expensive country I have visited, albeit the Norwegian Kroner having depreciated considerably (and favourably) in recent years. Nevertheless, I do have a couple of points which you can consider.

Norway in a Nutshell

This has to be the best place to start. In the previous section I recommended taking the Norway in a Nutshell trip to travel between Bergen and Oslo, but now I am going to tell you not to take the Norway in a Nutshell tour.

Not making any sense?

As I have said above, the Norway in a Nutshell trip is made up of 5 legs of public transport on trains, bus and boat. Fjord Tours packages and sells these 5 public transport tickets as one single Norway in a Nutshell tour/ticket, which is extremely convenient as it removes the hassle of buying individual tickets from different transport providers.

However, they can charge you nearly 50% more than if you were to individually book the tickets yourself. Furthermore, there is no additional value added to their tickets. i.e. there is no tour guide, no additional commentaries, no meals included, nothing. That essentially means you get nothing else other than convenience of a single point of purchase.

Norway in a Nutshell takes you on trains, ferry and cruise through the fjords
Norway in a Nutshell takes you on trains, ferry and cruise through the fjords
Winter wonderland along the Norway in a Nutshell
Winter wonderland along the Norway in a Nutshell
Example

To illustrate this, I tried checking the prices for a Norway in a Nutshell trip on 3 September 2024 for travel on 24 September 2024. Firstly, I looked up the price of the trip packaged by Fjord Tours. And then I checked the individual prices of the 5 journeys. I found that Fjord Tours was charging 2965 NOK, which is 44% more compared to the sum of the 5 individual tickets. Hence, unless you think the convenience is worth the premium, booking them individually can save you lots!

The 5 legs of the Norway in a Nutshell and their prices for 24 September 2024

No.

Time

From

To

Cost

Provider

1

0825-1304

Oslo

Myrdal

569

2

1324-1422

Myrdal

Flam

510

3

1500-1700

Flam

Gudvanger

625

4

1725-1855

Gudvanger

Voss

98

5

1913-2040

Voss

Bergen

257

Total

2059

Cruise from Flåm to Gudvanger while on the Norway in a Nutshell trip
Cruise from Flåm to Gudvanger while on the Norway in a Nutshell trip
Norway in a Nutshell taking you through the fjords
Norway in a Nutshell taking you through the fjords

City passes

Before you arrive at any of the towns or cities, be sure to check out the city passes and understand their benefits to see if they fit your needs. I will attempt to sum up some of the main city passes available in Norway.

Oslo Pass

The Oslo Pass comes in either 24h, 48h or 72h and covers a number of the key attractions and public transport. I generally think the Oslo Pass is priced quite reasonably and has decent coverage. To illustrate this, a 48h pass costs 760 NOK for an adult. A typical 2-day itinerary would likely cover the Akershus Castle, Nobel Peace Centre, boat ride to Bygdøy, the Norsk Folkemuseum and Norwegian Maritime Museum. The sum of these costs and two bus rides would add up to about 768 NOK.

Refer to the list of benefits for the Oslo Pass.

The grounds of the Akershus Fortress, once a royal residence and also a military base
The Akershus Fortress, once a royal residence and also a military base
Norsk Folkemuseum, a large outdoor museum on Norwegian history and culture
Norsk Folkemuseum, a large outdoor museum on Norwegian history and culture
Bergen Card

The Bergen Card comes in 24h, 48h, 72h and 96h and covers a few attractions and public transport, as well as gives discounts to a number of other activities. However, the way it is priced does mean that I struggle to make the card worth. At least that’s the case for me and my interests. Refer to its benefits to make the call for yourself.

Bergen in winter as viewed from Mount Fløyen
Bergen in winter as viewed from Mount Fløyen
Tromsø Pass

Unlike most city passes, the Tromsø Pass has got four different variations – Classic, Cruise, Culture and Family. Interestingly, the Classic and Cruise passes do not have a limited timeframe. That is to say that you can use both the passes on all the attractions covered for an unlimited period of time. The Culture and Family passes are valid for a period of 7 days though, which is still fairly long enough.

However, the coverage for buses is only for 24 hours from your first bus trip, so this is one important point to take note of.

The passes are priced in such a way that I think it is worth only if you are planning to cover nearly all of the 2 to 10 attractions (depending on which variation you choose) included in it. For more information on the benefits and how to purchase the pass, refer to the Tromsø Pass website.

Finally, you can refer to this 4-Day Tromsø Itinerary in Winter (with the Northern Lights) which is based off the Tromsø pass Classic or Cruise.

Tromsø bridge and town as viewed from the Arctic Cathedral
Tromsø bridge and town as viewed from the Arctic Cathedral
The small town of Tromsø is the hub for viewing northern lights and winter adventures
The town of Tromsø is the hub for northern light viewing and winter adventures

How many days do I need?

Unlike other destinations featured so far, I find it difficult to give a straightforward answer for Norway. This is because it depends on a number of factors such as the season and where your interests lie. And if chasing the northern lights is your aim, then the number of days you are willing to dedicate to doing it becomes a factor. That’s because it is not a guarantee that you will see the northern lights. It depends very much on weather, cloud cover and the solar flare activity (which causes the northern lights). So that means the more days you are willing to try, the better your chances of seeing them.

The harbour in the city centre of Stavanger is also known as Vågen
The harbour in the city centre of Stavanger is also known as Vågen
Sverd i fjell, the monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord, standing tall at 10 metres
Sverd i fjell, the monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord in Stavanger
Summer

Generally in summer, I’d suggest two days in Oslo, a day on Norway in a Nutshell and two days in Bergen to make up a core 5-day Norway summer itinerary. If you love a hike or two, then I’d add a day in Bergen and/or another three days in Stavanger to hike to Pulpit Rock and Kjeragbolten. Three days in Ålesund would then top a complete Norwegian trip. If catching the midnight sun is a thing for you, then another 2-3 days in Tromsø too.

The hike to Pulpit Rock is one of the popular activities especially in summer
The hike to Pulpit Rock is one of the popular activities especially in summer
The Kjeragbolten hike can be quite challenging compared to the Pulpit rock
The Kjeragbolten hike can be quite challenging compared to the Pulpit rock
Winter, Spring and Autumn

If travelling outside of summer and chasing the northern lights, then I’d suggest also two days each in Oslo and Bergen. But, you should cover Norway in a Nutshell in two days instead of one due to the shorter days. I made a huge mistake in my first trip to Norway by covering the Norway in a Nutshell trip in winter in one day. I ended up travelling more than half the time in darkness, meaning that I didn’t get to fully enjoy the views.

To add on to this core 6-day Norway itinerary, I would recommend at least four days in Tromsø to better your chances of catching the northern lights, and to take on some winter adventures such as reindeer or dog-sledding, snowmobiling and ice-fishing.

The Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø
The Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø
Reindeer-sledding is one of the winter activities you can do when in Tromsø
Reindeer-sledding is one of the winter activities you can do when in Tromsø

What’s the weather like?

Firstly, before tackling this question, it is important to understand the geographical landscapes of the country. As I have noted above, Norway has the second longest coastline in the world. Thus it is not surprising that mainland Norway stretches between latitudes 58° and 71°. Also, the entire western side is bordered by the Norwegian Sea, and with Sweden and Finland on the eastern side (which I will refer to as the inland areas).

The area above latitude 66° is within the Arctic Circle and this, as well as the areas in Sweden and Finland within this Circle, is collectively known as Lapland. This is where in certain days in summers and winters when the sun does not set or rise. This is therefore the best place for viewing the midnight sun or the northern lights. And indeed, this is where Tromsø is.

Mild climates

Due to its proximity to the sea, Norway has mild winters and summers. Which is unlike other countries that are in similar latitudes as the sea helps to regulate temperatures. Generally, the higher latitudes and altitudes also means lower temperatures.

Having said that, the average daytime temperatures in Norway during summer is about 15-20°C, and just below freezing in winter. It then gets colder or warmer as you move to higher or lower latitudes and altitudes. And it also generally gets colder in winter and warmer in summers as you move inland.

That is to say, places like Bergen and Stavanger on the southwest enjoy very mild winters and summers.

Historic centre of Stavanger in summer
Historic centre of Stavanger in summer
The mild summers make it pleasant especially for hiking
The mild summers make it pleasant especially for hiking
Precipitation

Norway can be wet, especially around the coastlines. And particularly so during autumn. So, be ready for wet weather. To illustrate this, I did the Pulpit Rock and Kjeragbolten hikes in the peak of summer in August, but still had heavy rainfall and fog.

Weather forecasts

When deciding what to pack for your Norwegian trip, you can check yr.no for the latest forecasts brought to you by the Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corperation.

When in winter, large parts of Norway get blanketed in snow
When in winter, large parts of Norway get blanketed in snow
It gets colder when at higher elevations
It gets colder when at higher elevations

Is it safe?

Norway has to be, without doubt, one of the safest countries in the world with very low crime rates. There are still some fair bits of petty crimes such as theft and pickpocketing, so always remain alert and vigilant and keep an eye on your belongings. Violent crimes are very rare though.

It is also important to take note of safety if hiking. Exercise common sense, stay on track, avoid being too close to cliff edges and finish the hikes in advance of sunset. Particularly so if undertaking challenging hikes such as Kjeragbolten or long hikes such as Trolltunga. It is also equally important to remember to pack food and water as you’d not likely find food stalls during these long hikes.

Streets of Norway are one of the safest in Europe
Streets of Norway are one of the safest in Europe
Basic safety and common sense should be observed when hiking
Basic safety and common sense should be observed when hiking

What should I eat?

To begin with, Norway is the second-largest exporter of seafood after China. And the good news is, the best quality seafood tends to be kept within the country. Hence there is no better food to start with.

Fish Soup

I’m going to be biased and start with my top favourite whenever I visit Norway – fish soup. The Norwegian fish soup is the best I’ve ever had, and specifically my personal favourite is at Restaurant Fisketorget located at the harbour of Stavanger. The soup is creamy, almost like a seafood chowder, and normally contains chunks of cod and salmon with carrots and other vegetables.

Bergen fish soup at Bryggeloftet
Bergen fish soup at Bryggeloftet
Fish soup at Restaurant Fisketorget Stavanger is my personal favourite
Fish soup at Restaurant Fisketorget Stavanger is my personal favourite

Other seafood

The Norwegian cod and salmon are two of the largest seafood exports of Norway and you can find some of the freshest seafood in the restaurants all around Norway. If you are visiting Bergen, be sure to visit the Bergen Fish Market at the Bergen Harbour Bryggen. Another famous food to take note of is the Rokt Las (smoked salmon).

Also worthy of mention is Tørrfisk, which is a dried fish, normally cod, that is hung out to dry in cold and dry winds. The result is a crisp-like Norwegian snack.

The Bergen Fish Market offers you the freshest seafood from the region
The Bergen Fish Market offers you the freshest seafood from the region
The famous Bergen Fish Market is located at the harbour of Bergen
The famous Bergen Fish Market is located at the harbour of Bergen
Fårikål

Despite all the talks about the exports in seafood, this slow-cooked, mutton and cabbage stew typically served with boiled potatoes is surprisingly Norway’s national dish. You can find this dish in most traditional Norwegian restaurants and is particularly loved during the colder months of autumn and winter.

Kjøttboller

This is Norwegian meatballs, almost like its Scandinavian counterpart’s Swedish meatballs, but differs slightly in its spices. More specifically, the Norwegian version typically uses ginger and/or nutmeg.

Brunost

This is a brown cheese that has been caramelised, hence making a savoury sweet taste commonly eaten with bread or waffles. It is commonly made out of cow or goat milk and has a texture similar to fudge.

Reindeer

Whenever you are in Northern Norway, you are most likely to come across reindeer meat. That is because reindeer, in particular the reindeer stew is the national dish of the Sami community who live in the area. You will almost certainly be served a variation of reindeer meat or stew if you were to join any of the winter adventures in Tromsø. I find it very much like a leaner and tougher version of deer meat but I’ll leave you to conclude yourself.

Having a hearty reindeer meal after our snowmobile adventure
Having a hearty reindeer meal after our snowmobile adventure
Pinterest Norway guide
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Norway closing note

To conclude, there is a whole wide range of activities that I associate with a visit to Norway. There are not only spectacular fjords, intriguing museums and comforting fish soups that can appeal all year round, you can also hike the most breathtaking routes in summer and engage in a wide variety of winter adventures. Furthermore, I view Northern Norway as one of the best and reliable places to view the Northern Lights phenomenon. Whether you are a food, nature or history lover, or seeking for some adrenaline, Norway has something for you.

Additionally, have a look at my 4-Day Tromsø Itinerary in Winter (with the Northern Lights)!

Lastly, leave your comments below in case you wish to know anything else about Norway, or anything you wish to see featured in the posts.

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I enjoy travels involving nature, hiking and breathtaking scenery and love taking amazing pictures along the way

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